Japan is a society structured around conservatism and a universal refusal to break from the collective mold. Group exercise and regimented parallel parking is the norm and dining requires a legal almanac all of its own.
Serving up individual meal components in separate vessels, those who dare to mix are ostracised from society, doomed to spend eternity in solitary exile.
And using the wrong sauce is punishable by death. Gyoza poised in Ramen Family, the Oriental equivalent of a Blackpool seafront pre-smoking ban greasy spoon, the waitress scurried over to remove the pot of sauce I had just poured. Handing me a clean dish she pointed frantically at another bottle of an identical looking condiment at the end of the table. I was left with no alternative other than to do as instructed.
Putting anything in your rice bowl is more taboo than showing a video of anal-prolapse porn to a class of four-year-olds. After a year I have plucked up enough courage to sneak other food-stuffs into my rice when no one is looking but the guilt I feel burns me to the core, outweighing any level of satisfaction.
While sauce etiquette can be a very risky business, it is perfectly acceptable to make more noise than a pig suffocating on its own swill when eating your noodles.
The maths teacher in my Junior High School, who has taken the country's infamous 'noodle slurp' to a whole new level. Defying the laws of science, he manages to slurp cake, crackers and sticky rice with the same wet desperation of an attention seeking St Bernard.
I digress.
Despite all this, and much much more, the Japanese do have a childish streak and burning desire to find an excuse to celebrate pretty much everything.
Cherry blossoms trees blossom, they sit beneath the branches and get drunk off Sake.
Fireflies hatch, they sit by the river and get drunk off sake.
Spring “Setsubun”, they make sushi and get drunk of sake.
Rainy season comes, it’s time to plant the rice, they climb into a water-filled muddy paddy field to play ‘Mud Olympics,’ and get drunk off sake.
There seems to be a running theme here.
Returning to the mud athletics which, nine months down the line, still ranks as one of my favourite events on the Japanese calendar.
From the second I could focus my one passion has been mud. This led to a tirelessly angry mother, who spent too many years ordering her grotty swamp monster to strip at the doorstep, before hosing it down and ushering it into the bathroom.
With no disapproving mother on the horizon I took full advantage of the annual mud event in a rice paddy just outside of Tsuyama.
Events at what transpired to be a more vicious version of Takeshi’s Castle included wheelbarrow races, flag dashes and a three legged-race with granny stockings yanked over the flour doused heads of the losers, inevitably the less able foreigners.
Other events, including the hop, skip and jump and an ultimate cycling challenge, resulted in the disappearance of countless contestants, claimed by the paddy field swamp monster as they landed in the shin-deep slime.
As the Croc was sucked from the foot of one friend, a manual dredge ensued. It was I who unearthed the missing footwear, holding it high for all to see as the crowd cheered in awe and admiration. For some reason saving such an abhorrent article is cause for celebration, and excuse to drink even more sake.
In a grande finale we were handed water pistols, paper targets strapped to our heads, and set lose in the muddy waters, engaged in an every-man-for-himself battle to the death.
The fire brigade was on hand to power-hose down the mud-drenched survivors, and the sausage a colleague from California had salvaged from a puddle of mud, reinforcing the commonly known fact, among the Japanese massive, that all westerners are idiots.
Being the only female Western participant, the event commentator took great joy in referring to me as “Shexy Ellie" throughout the course of the day.
With marginal male attention in weeks, flour coated, muddy and bite-riddled knees, which had swollen up to the size of very old trees, I felt as far removed from “shexy” as someone who has turned up to a fancy dress party dressed as Myra Hindley.
What’s wrong with these people?
Friday, 16 March 2012
Wednesday, 14 March 2012
I Kissed a Frog and I Liked it
In a group interview prior to jetting off to our new lives on the orient, we were asked;
“Why do you think there is a higher ratio of men to women who teach English in Japan?”
A boy, who had already expressed that he wanted to come here to, and I quote, “Eat noodles on New Year’s Eve,” shot his hand up and shouted without prompt; “to get married.”
“Correct,” the interviewee replied, confirming our company is in fact a find a bride organization cleverly masked as an “Assisted Language Teacher” provider.
Having assumed the reason to be that men are less emotionally attached to their loved ones than the more loyal female of the species, this naively came as a surprise.
There are plenty of young single women in England, why not just marry one of them?
But what was explained during this early days interview was a sugar-coated version of the true facts.
Within a month of being in the country, set on finding someone doable to tide me over for the year, the reality fast became clear.
Socially awkward and lacking etiquette of any degree, the majority of Western men are incapable of engaging in adult conversation.
Like Medusa, eye contact should be avoided at all costs. The second retinas meet you are their captive for the duration of the evening.
They will rabble incoherent gibberish while you sporadically nod and grunt to show you are listening. Entirely socially ungracious they wouldn’t even realize if you choked and died before their eyes. They would carry on regardless, making as much sense as someone who has eaten a tin of Alphabetti, regurgitated it onto a dinner plate and then proceeded to read the end result.
The only escape is to palm them off on an unwitting passer-by before locking yourself in the squatter until the last order bell trings.
Or feed them more beer. After two more pints, they begin threatening to beat up anything within a five centimetre radius, for no particular reason. But at least the attention is diverted elsewhere.
Inept at making small talk, these awkward foreigners are incapable of striking up friendships on home turf - hence the reason they are in Japan, where just being foreign immediately places them in the same league as Buddah.
With faces you wouldn’t leave alone with a Rottweiler, let alone a room full of schoolchildren, for some reason even a man with the face and manner of a serial rapist, as long as he is Western, is a universal Adonis among the female Japanese population.
This false advertising of Western society has seen many a relationship between beautiful women and Western men, who put Fred West on a par with Eeyore, blossoming into marriage.
Where does this leave Western women?
Gaijin guys are disinterested in white chicks and Japanese men are terrified of our brashly extrovert manner.
The most interest I have had since arriving in this country is a bleach-blonde metrosexual repeatedly shouting “nipples” and tweaking my breasts, a 21-year-old naked boy’s attempts to hump my knee on the beach and a middle-aged Albanian who stalked me tirelessly around an Osaka nightclub late last year. Not to forget the lesbian mentioned in an earlier blog.
During the summer months, the heat saw our desperation accelerating to an extent so great we resorted to crouching on the porch outside a house party, taking it in turns to make out with a little green frog called Derek in the vain hope that there was some truth in the fairytales and we THE princesses to break the witch’s evil curse.
To no avail. At sunrise, disparaged, tired and sober, we aborted what had come to be a futile mission. We only found one frog, which had dried up after hours of abuse.
So the desperation continues.
I would strongly advise fathers everywhere to lock up their sons prior to my touch down on the English concrete of Heathrow.
“Why do you think there is a higher ratio of men to women who teach English in Japan?”
A boy, who had already expressed that he wanted to come here to, and I quote, “Eat noodles on New Year’s Eve,” shot his hand up and shouted without prompt; “to get married.”
“Correct,” the interviewee replied, confirming our company is in fact a find a bride organization cleverly masked as an “Assisted Language Teacher” provider.
Having assumed the reason to be that men are less emotionally attached to their loved ones than the more loyal female of the species, this naively came as a surprise.
There are plenty of young single women in England, why not just marry one of them?
But what was explained during this early days interview was a sugar-coated version of the true facts.
Within a month of being in the country, set on finding someone doable to tide me over for the year, the reality fast became clear.
Socially awkward and lacking etiquette of any degree, the majority of Western men are incapable of engaging in adult conversation.
Like Medusa, eye contact should be avoided at all costs. The second retinas meet you are their captive for the duration of the evening.
They will rabble incoherent gibberish while you sporadically nod and grunt to show you are listening. Entirely socially ungracious they wouldn’t even realize if you choked and died before their eyes. They would carry on regardless, making as much sense as someone who has eaten a tin of Alphabetti, regurgitated it onto a dinner plate and then proceeded to read the end result.
The only escape is to palm them off on an unwitting passer-by before locking yourself in the squatter until the last order bell trings.
Or feed them more beer. After two more pints, they begin threatening to beat up anything within a five centimetre radius, for no particular reason. But at least the attention is diverted elsewhere.
Inept at making small talk, these awkward foreigners are incapable of striking up friendships on home turf - hence the reason they are in Japan, where just being foreign immediately places them in the same league as Buddah.
With faces you wouldn’t leave alone with a Rottweiler, let alone a room full of schoolchildren, for some reason even a man with the face and manner of a serial rapist, as long as he is Western, is a universal Adonis among the female Japanese population.
This false advertising of Western society has seen many a relationship between beautiful women and Western men, who put Fred West on a par with Eeyore, blossoming into marriage.
Where does this leave Western women?
Gaijin guys are disinterested in white chicks and Japanese men are terrified of our brashly extrovert manner.
The most interest I have had since arriving in this country is a bleach-blonde metrosexual repeatedly shouting “nipples” and tweaking my breasts, a 21-year-old naked boy’s attempts to hump my knee on the beach and a middle-aged Albanian who stalked me tirelessly around an Osaka nightclub late last year. Not to forget the lesbian mentioned in an earlier blog.
During the summer months, the heat saw our desperation accelerating to an extent so great we resorted to crouching on the porch outside a house party, taking it in turns to make out with a little green frog called Derek in the vain hope that there was some truth in the fairytales and we THE princesses to break the witch’s evil curse.
To no avail. At sunrise, disparaged, tired and sober, we aborted what had come to be a futile mission. We only found one frog, which had dried up after hours of abuse.
So the desperation continues.
I would strongly advise fathers everywhere to lock up their sons prior to my touch down on the English concrete of Heathrow.
Sunday, 11 March 2012
Mozzy Cuntbourne
Unlike their English relatives, Japanese bugs are a menace to society and one that has seen me developing a manic glint, reminiscent of a serial killer.
I have been known to spend entire evenings, cross legged in the centre of my room, straining the lugholes to locate the position of the mosquitoes, which plagued my waking - and sleeping - hours all summer long.
These glorified vampires worked to transform my pasty skinned exterior into a scene from a Black Death reconstruction camp, engorged lumps and bumps forcing me to walk like a wind-up toy soldier, leaving usually friendly locals cowering in the wake of Zombie May Banks.
With an impeccable aim and ability to squash the little fuckers in one foul clap, no fly was safe.
Following a sleep-attack from a particularly gluttonous offender, which left me with a face resembling the product of a sordid love affair between a warty toad and Meatloaf, the culprit became my first victim, its innards making a satisfying squishy pop between my palms.
The harrowing memories of being awoken in such a manner are too horrific to recount.
Despite smearing its remains down my window, as a warning to mosquitoes Yubara wide, they sadly weren’t deterred from my delicious blood.
And so war was declared, my apartment transformed into a mosquito death camp, a tiny plug in egg my weapon of mass destruction.
The death toll reached uncountable figures under the reign of Ellie the Assassin.
With the last of the mosquito’s came the rise of the stink bugs.
Similar in shape and size to the less offensive cockroach, I was not forewarned of their odour, which is exactly how I would imagine an old corpse doused in Old Spice to smell.
Like Big Brother, stink bugs are everywhere. Dragging on an old vest top from the depths of my crammed drawer, I was surprised to see I had formed an obscurely placed extra nipple overnight.
Upon closer inspection, inside the supportive bodice upper half, a stink bug was snuggled in to regions of vest I never even knew existed.
Scooping these beasts up can prove dangerous as they excrete their ghastly serum across your hand. Like a broken heart, time is the only cure for the lingering sensation of bad.
The worst stink bug incident came one morning. Washed, showered, breakfasted and on the way out of the door, feeling dapper in my brand new jumper, I felt a tickle on my shoulder.
Scratching the area I was horrified at the smell that was unleashed, as the bug plummeted to the laminate flooring, wriggling on its back in that irritating way that badly designed hard-back bugs tend to.
I had been attacked from behind, off my guard. And so the foul playing, foul stinking stink bug found itself hurtling towards the valley of death outside my apartment with all the force an angry Ellie May could muster before, with no time to shower again, I was forced to spend the rest of the day explaining my disposition to wary colleagues.
The invasion of the stink bugs made me yearn for Colin the cockroach who, although a little noisy when he scuttled around during the night, was a good roommate, unlike his less savoury relatives.
But there is light relief at the end of the tunnel. For the past month I have been flat-sharing with Susie the Invincible, a resident red on black ladybug, who is no trouble at all. She flutters around a bit but mainly chills on my dressing table.
It’s not just the bugs that come into the home, but those who lurk outdoors which disturb the peace of rural society.
Cicadas and locusts engage in a vicious round-the-clock squawk off, harmonizing with a chorus of relentless frogs throughout Japan’s late spring “rainy season”.
Cicadas, which sound identical to Little Britain’s Anne, are the clear winner every time.
Finally let's not forget the weird array of alien bugs. Poisonous? I cannot tell, but they will meet death by pint glass in an every man for himself battle of survival.
And chanting woman?
Don’t get me started.
I have been known to spend entire evenings, cross legged in the centre of my room, straining the lugholes to locate the position of the mosquitoes, which plagued my waking - and sleeping - hours all summer long.
These glorified vampires worked to transform my pasty skinned exterior into a scene from a Black Death reconstruction camp, engorged lumps and bumps forcing me to walk like a wind-up toy soldier, leaving usually friendly locals cowering in the wake of Zombie May Banks.
With an impeccable aim and ability to squash the little fuckers in one foul clap, no fly was safe.
Following a sleep-attack from a particularly gluttonous offender, which left me with a face resembling the product of a sordid love affair between a warty toad and Meatloaf, the culprit became my first victim, its innards making a satisfying squishy pop between my palms.
The harrowing memories of being awoken in such a manner are too horrific to recount.
Despite smearing its remains down my window, as a warning to mosquitoes Yubara wide, they sadly weren’t deterred from my delicious blood.
And so war was declared, my apartment transformed into a mosquito death camp, a tiny plug in egg my weapon of mass destruction.
The death toll reached uncountable figures under the reign of Ellie the Assassin.
With the last of the mosquito’s came the rise of the stink bugs.
Similar in shape and size to the less offensive cockroach, I was not forewarned of their odour, which is exactly how I would imagine an old corpse doused in Old Spice to smell.
Like Big Brother, stink bugs are everywhere. Dragging on an old vest top from the depths of my crammed drawer, I was surprised to see I had formed an obscurely placed extra nipple overnight.
Upon closer inspection, inside the supportive bodice upper half, a stink bug was snuggled in to regions of vest I never even knew existed.
Scooping these beasts up can prove dangerous as they excrete their ghastly serum across your hand. Like a broken heart, time is the only cure for the lingering sensation of bad.
The worst stink bug incident came one morning. Washed, showered, breakfasted and on the way out of the door, feeling dapper in my brand new jumper, I felt a tickle on my shoulder.
Scratching the area I was horrified at the smell that was unleashed, as the bug plummeted to the laminate flooring, wriggling on its back in that irritating way that badly designed hard-back bugs tend to.
I had been attacked from behind, off my guard. And so the foul playing, foul stinking stink bug found itself hurtling towards the valley of death outside my apartment with all the force an angry Ellie May could muster before, with no time to shower again, I was forced to spend the rest of the day explaining my disposition to wary colleagues.
The invasion of the stink bugs made me yearn for Colin the cockroach who, although a little noisy when he scuttled around during the night, was a good roommate, unlike his less savoury relatives.
But there is light relief at the end of the tunnel. For the past month I have been flat-sharing with Susie the Invincible, a resident red on black ladybug, who is no trouble at all. She flutters around a bit but mainly chills on my dressing table.
It’s not just the bugs that come into the home, but those who lurk outdoors which disturb the peace of rural society.
Cicadas and locusts engage in a vicious round-the-clock squawk off, harmonizing with a chorus of relentless frogs throughout Japan’s late spring “rainy season”.
Cicadas, which sound identical to Little Britain’s Anne, are the clear winner every time.
Finally let's not forget the weird array of alien bugs. Poisonous? I cannot tell, but they will meet death by pint glass in an every man for himself battle of survival.
And chanting woman?
Don’t get me started.
Friday, 24 February 2012
The Isle of Faff
The things I will miss following my year abroad without a doubt entirely outweigh the things to which I will be glad to bid a long overdue sayonara.
But it is these soon-to be-a-distant traumatic memories which, more often than not, make for the best writing material.
The years of postcards from loved-ones abroad plays constant reminder that no-one is interested in the stately homes, castles, beach parties, shrines, temples and glorious mountains of Japan or anywhere else in the world for that matter.
Sat on your sofa at home the fact that I saw a big Buddah with nostrils the size of Harvey Price is about as interesting as being locked in a dungeon with James Blunt and a guitar.
“Yubara Einstein" who spends his life cutting insects from fliers to present to the village idiot - namely me - while pulling faces like a remedial trout at the end of the bar in my local. Paper thin too hot in summer and too fucking cold in winter houses, outdoor washing machines with pipes that freeze with the first snowflake of winter.
Holes in the floor covered with the faeces of the thousands that have gone before next to futuristic toilets sent from the Gods. Noisy bugs, noisy frogs, chanting woman, 5am sirens, Internet modem and drive-by announcements at unearthly hours of the morning.
As irritating as all these things are (asides for Fish-face Einstein) they all add to the oddity that is Japan.
My latest and long overdue rant comes from a recurring theme which has long tested my patience.
Faffing.
From a family made up of half doers and half faffers, I did not think anyone could score higher than my mother, brother and one cousin in-particular in the "what the fuck have you been doing for the past hour?" stakes.
But someone, or rather something does.
Japan.
Lunchtime today, the dinner lady trundles in with her trolley carrying too many trays and dishes for the staffroom. They talk, as always for a good 10 minutes, with concerned expressions. I can only gather from my limited Japanese that they are counting up how many diners there will be this lunchtime, as our vats of slop grow colder and colder.
The usual slow dishing up rigmarole ensues. Ravenous, we all "Itadakimasu" and tuck in. Lo and behold a latecomer arrives, with who comes a sense of impending doom as every single person, sombre-faced, looks around in stunned disbelief.
Despite the fact that this happens EVERY FUCKING DAY.
Being a major faux pas to eat from the plate of another, chopsticks clatter, the multitude stands, staring hopelessly as nothing proactive is done to salvage some untouched fodder for the teacher, unlucky enough to have drawn the short straw of hunger on this particular occasion.
A gaijin experiencing this daily happening for the first time could be forgiven for thinking someone had just announced the Land of the Rising Sun's latest Emperor’s had just been discovered, beheaded and ass raped in a gutter.
But if they are anything like me, not one of them actually gives a shit. They all know that eventually the person who has fucked up will salvage a meal from somewhere.
Yet they continue to stand, gormlessly, wishing someone would set the ball in motion and sit down before our appetising dinner trays comprising a bowl of sticky rice, cabbage salad as bland as the James Blunt dungeon scenario, and a scrap of miscellaneous fish, are colder than their dead Emperor.
The epic conversation to come up with a solution to this frequent problem brings me onto another point.
The language.
You don't need to speak Japanese to get by in Japan.
Once you realise that nothing is actually being said, except an amalgamation of meaningless expressions, it becomes clear that Japanese proficiency is far from a necessity.
Japanese people talk a lot. But time has told me everything they say is merely a running commentary of their surroundings.
Supermarket shopping was once a daunting experience, the checkout lady's lips a blur as she muttered away faster than the speed of sound. Once it was brought to my attention that she is doing nothing more than naming every single package, its content and price, I was able to relax and offer the occasional supportive nod.
A typical and mandatory conversation, when arriving home late for a meal goes a little something like this:
"I'm back"
"You're back"
"I started eating before you"
"I am starting eating now, after you"
"I've finished eating."
"I've finished eating."
A prime example of the most pointless of foreign languages arose at a recent snowboarding excursion.
Opting to spend the afternoon in a two-hour "snowboard school," the instructor spoke for more than half an hour to explain two key points relating to the popular winter sport.
1. How to attach your feet to the board.
2. How to attach the pull rope to your trousers.
Japanese people refer to this as thorough. English would opt for something more along the lines of "time-wasting" and demand their cash back from the "fucking money grabbing whores."
Impatient and desperate to hit the slopes, after 90 minutes we finally mounted the ski lift, making our ascent to the summit of the bunny run. Here we were abandoned by our instructor, who had taught us nothing, yet claimed that "time was up" as she glided away until she was nothing but a spot in the distance.
Once can only hope she ploughed head first into a very big tree.
Two hours later and 3,500 yen lighter, I seemed to have taken a backward step back
from my debut outing on the slopes. Rather like the toilet situation, snowboarding experiences range from one extreme to the other.
My previous instructor, having explained nothing, dragged me, snowboard attached to one foot, to the ski-lift. I fell off at the top, twisted my knee and got twatted around the head by the next approaching chair. Every time.
But at least I could board by the end of the day.
Another example of a language reflecting this nation of procrastinating faffers, comes following a visit to the immigration office to obtain a nursery teacher certificate.
Taking good friend and translator Trevor along for moral support, he spoke with the man behind the counter for what felt like hours.
The general gist of the conversation?
Office worker: "Japanese instrumental - 15 minutes,"
Trevor (to me): - "so stick this in your passport yeah?"
Me: "okay, cheers."
Office worker: (translation) - "Wow you said that so quickly in English (which also took considerably longer to spit out in Japanese."
To cut a long story short, I have discovered that by saying "hai (yes)" during the odd pause when a speaker pauses for breath, the end result will be what was originally intended.
Except with food.
With food it can bring some nasty surprises.
But it is these soon-to be-a-distant traumatic memories which, more often than not, make for the best writing material.
The years of postcards from loved-ones abroad plays constant reminder that no-one is interested in the stately homes, castles, beach parties, shrines, temples and glorious mountains of Japan or anywhere else in the world for that matter.
Sat on your sofa at home the fact that I saw a big Buddah with nostrils the size of Harvey Price is about as interesting as being locked in a dungeon with James Blunt and a guitar.
“Yubara Einstein" who spends his life cutting insects from fliers to present to the village idiot - namely me - while pulling faces like a remedial trout at the end of the bar in my local. Paper thin too hot in summer and too fucking cold in winter houses, outdoor washing machines with pipes that freeze with the first snowflake of winter.
Holes in the floor covered with the faeces of the thousands that have gone before next to futuristic toilets sent from the Gods. Noisy bugs, noisy frogs, chanting woman, 5am sirens, Internet modem and drive-by announcements at unearthly hours of the morning.
As irritating as all these things are (asides for Fish-face Einstein) they all add to the oddity that is Japan.
My latest and long overdue rant comes from a recurring theme which has long tested my patience.
Faffing.
From a family made up of half doers and half faffers, I did not think anyone could score higher than my mother, brother and one cousin in-particular in the "what the fuck have you been doing for the past hour?" stakes.
But someone, or rather something does.
Japan.
Lunchtime today, the dinner lady trundles in with her trolley carrying too many trays and dishes for the staffroom. They talk, as always for a good 10 minutes, with concerned expressions. I can only gather from my limited Japanese that they are counting up how many diners there will be this lunchtime, as our vats of slop grow colder and colder.
The usual slow dishing up rigmarole ensues. Ravenous, we all "Itadakimasu" and tuck in. Lo and behold a latecomer arrives, with who comes a sense of impending doom as every single person, sombre-faced, looks around in stunned disbelief.
Despite the fact that this happens EVERY FUCKING DAY.
Being a major faux pas to eat from the plate of another, chopsticks clatter, the multitude stands, staring hopelessly as nothing proactive is done to salvage some untouched fodder for the teacher, unlucky enough to have drawn the short straw of hunger on this particular occasion.
A gaijin experiencing this daily happening for the first time could be forgiven for thinking someone had just announced the Land of the Rising Sun's latest Emperor’s had just been discovered, beheaded and ass raped in a gutter.
But if they are anything like me, not one of them actually gives a shit. They all know that eventually the person who has fucked up will salvage a meal from somewhere.
Yet they continue to stand, gormlessly, wishing someone would set the ball in motion and sit down before our appetising dinner trays comprising a bowl of sticky rice, cabbage salad as bland as the James Blunt dungeon scenario, and a scrap of miscellaneous fish, are colder than their dead Emperor.
The epic conversation to come up with a solution to this frequent problem brings me onto another point.
The language.
You don't need to speak Japanese to get by in Japan.
Once you realise that nothing is actually being said, except an amalgamation of meaningless expressions, it becomes clear that Japanese proficiency is far from a necessity.
Japanese people talk a lot. But time has told me everything they say is merely a running commentary of their surroundings.
Supermarket shopping was once a daunting experience, the checkout lady's lips a blur as she muttered away faster than the speed of sound. Once it was brought to my attention that she is doing nothing more than naming every single package, its content and price, I was able to relax and offer the occasional supportive nod.
A typical and mandatory conversation, when arriving home late for a meal goes a little something like this:
"I'm back"
"You're back"
"I started eating before you"
"I am starting eating now, after you"
"I've finished eating."
"I've finished eating."
A prime example of the most pointless of foreign languages arose at a recent snowboarding excursion.
Opting to spend the afternoon in a two-hour "snowboard school," the instructor spoke for more than half an hour to explain two key points relating to the popular winter sport.
1. How to attach your feet to the board.
2. How to attach the pull rope to your trousers.
Japanese people refer to this as thorough. English would opt for something more along the lines of "time-wasting" and demand their cash back from the "fucking money grabbing whores."
Impatient and desperate to hit the slopes, after 90 minutes we finally mounted the ski lift, making our ascent to the summit of the bunny run. Here we were abandoned by our instructor, who had taught us nothing, yet claimed that "time was up" as she glided away until she was nothing but a spot in the distance.
Once can only hope she ploughed head first into a very big tree.
Two hours later and 3,500 yen lighter, I seemed to have taken a backward step back
from my debut outing on the slopes. Rather like the toilet situation, snowboarding experiences range from one extreme to the other.
My previous instructor, having explained nothing, dragged me, snowboard attached to one foot, to the ski-lift. I fell off at the top, twisted my knee and got twatted around the head by the next approaching chair. Every time.
But at least I could board by the end of the day.
Another example of a language reflecting this nation of procrastinating faffers, comes following a visit to the immigration office to obtain a nursery teacher certificate.
Taking good friend and translator Trevor along for moral support, he spoke with the man behind the counter for what felt like hours.
The general gist of the conversation?
Office worker: "Japanese instrumental - 15 minutes,"
Trevor (to me): - "so stick this in your passport yeah?"
Me: "okay, cheers."
Office worker: (translation) - "Wow you said that so quickly in English (which also took considerably longer to spit out in Japanese."
To cut a long story short, I have discovered that by saying "hai (yes)" during the odd pause when a speaker pauses for breath, the end result will be what was originally intended.
Except with food.
With food it can bring some nasty surprises.
Thursday, 16 February 2012
Children of Japan, Part Three - Let Them Eat Cake
As my year abroad draws to an end I feel it only right to contribute one more document to the main reason I am even in Japan at all – the children.
To teach in Japan the key rule you must remember is that having fun of any sort can be, and more often than not is, very dangerous.
The most recent example of good times turned ugly came on Tuesday during a fun game of build and destroy, with a points system whereby a team must build a house made up of 12 chalk lines. A saw is worth three lines, a hammer two and a bomb destroys three from an opposing team.
Things went nasty when a board-rubber brandishing girl on team rabbit erased three lines from team frog. One member of the competition got angry, took off his name tag, throwing it at the demolition worker's head while simultaneously bursting into tears.
Next the injured party turned on the taps, instigating a Mexican cry until I was confronted with a classroom full of tantrum throwing tots, helplessly drowning in a sea of snot-infested tears.
One girl remained dry eyed and stared at me with a knowing smirk, far beyond her seven-year-old self.
Teenagers are more resilient, my few lessons providing comic relief in the otherwise desk-bound world that is the days spent in Junior High School.
When instructed to "say like Ellie Sensei says," the classroom is filled with a mix of high pitched wails and Dick Van Dyke’s circa Mary Poppins.
Prone to the giggles I have been forced to stand at the back of the classroom as every lesson, without fail, first graders deliberately attempt to get themselves into trouble with the Home Room Teacher so that she will shout. At which point they will deliberately ignore her in favour of pulling all manner of faces in attempt to make me laugh. As Akaiwa sensei grows angrier I laugh more, undermining the authority's authority entirely.
I have walked into classrooms before to find a child locked in the broom cupboard, boys being stripped to their underclothes by male peers, which they worryingly seem to be enjoying. Once during class, a recently stripped boy asked for his socks back, the thief threw them across the room where they bounced off the owner's head and out of the window into the thick snow lying one storey beneath.
According to the homeroom teacher, none of this is in the least bit funny.
Teachers snack and graze, warding off the hunger pangs throughout the day. In one school I even have my very own treat drawer and every time the teachers share chocolates, fruit or cake, they hide one in my special place. Not always good when mouldy oranges are only discovered weeks after the Christmas holidays.
Yet it is forbidden for children to bring anything edible into school whatsoever. Discovery of sweet wrappers causes scandal levels similar to Ian Brady’s killing spree on the Moors.
Considering this to be an urban legend, or rural legend as the case may be, a friend relayed the sequence of recent events in one of her schools to me over a bowl of ramen.
One solitary sweet wrapper had been found concealed behind the sink in the girl's toilets. Meetings were held, assemblies called, the culprit urged to turn themselves in.
The general gist of why this is such a major faux pas?
"School is a place for learning, not eating."
By fourth period, the one before lunch, I cannot concentrate in class, my students are keeling over and dying of starvation and concentration and patience levels are dangerously low all round.
Nothing is learnt and the clock is watched ticking by slowly by all concerned.
Maybe the Japanese educational system needs to review its concentration camp-esque policy, make like Mary Antoinette and LET THEM EAT CAKE, chocolate, sweets, anything to make them more prone to listening.
And then there's those that hold a grudge.
The sole example being three children, likened to the Midwich Cuckoos, recounted in Children of Japan Part Two.
After forming an alliance against me when I inadvertently caused one of them to cry over a game of rock scissors paper in the morbid heat of summer more than six months ago, they are STILL not talking to me.
Instead they attempt to make my life as difficult as possible for the 45 minutes per month that they are graced with my presence.
While I struggle to remember that fateful, the summer of 2011 will play heavy on my 11-year-old victim’s mind until the day he dies.
I have been told by a good friend that I must tell the main perpetrator of recent trouble, and victim’s girlfriend, in broad Lancastrian, to "shove a cabbage up her cunt."
With one day remaining at the school comes my final chance to action this challenge. I may even try to slip "evil bitch troll from hell" into the mix.
Moving on to coughs and sniffles.
After a weekend of uncontrollable debauchery, I was one of the lucky few to be given a "working day" and instructed to stay at home when more than 50 per cent, and some 75 students were taken down with the flu. School was cancelled and I, the healthy Westerner, spent the day watching films and catching up on sleep.
It is mandatory for sick Japanese people, young and old to wear masks to protect others from their death bugs. In extreme epidemics such as this recent spate of so-called "influenza", pretty much everyone voluntarily opts to sport the Darth Vader look, inhaling their own spit and carbon monoxide all day long.
Every Japanese person I have spoken to has had the flu this time round while their non-mask wearing colleagues from abroad have magically survived unscathed by the 24-hour superbug which, like everything else, has been blown out of all proportion.
Yet another unfathomable oriental survival tactic.
No wonder they lost the war.
To teach in Japan the key rule you must remember is that having fun of any sort can be, and more often than not is, very dangerous.
The most recent example of good times turned ugly came on Tuesday during a fun game of build and destroy, with a points system whereby a team must build a house made up of 12 chalk lines. A saw is worth three lines, a hammer two and a bomb destroys three from an opposing team.
Things went nasty when a board-rubber brandishing girl on team rabbit erased three lines from team frog. One member of the competition got angry, took off his name tag, throwing it at the demolition worker's head while simultaneously bursting into tears.
Next the injured party turned on the taps, instigating a Mexican cry until I was confronted with a classroom full of tantrum throwing tots, helplessly drowning in a sea of snot-infested tears.
One girl remained dry eyed and stared at me with a knowing smirk, far beyond her seven-year-old self.
Teenagers are more resilient, my few lessons providing comic relief in the otherwise desk-bound world that is the days spent in Junior High School.
When instructed to "say like Ellie Sensei says," the classroom is filled with a mix of high pitched wails and Dick Van Dyke’s circa Mary Poppins.
Prone to the giggles I have been forced to stand at the back of the classroom as every lesson, without fail, first graders deliberately attempt to get themselves into trouble with the Home Room Teacher so that she will shout. At which point they will deliberately ignore her in favour of pulling all manner of faces in attempt to make me laugh. As Akaiwa sensei grows angrier I laugh more, undermining the authority's authority entirely.
I have walked into classrooms before to find a child locked in the broom cupboard, boys being stripped to their underclothes by male peers, which they worryingly seem to be enjoying. Once during class, a recently stripped boy asked for his socks back, the thief threw them across the room where they bounced off the owner's head and out of the window into the thick snow lying one storey beneath.
According to the homeroom teacher, none of this is in the least bit funny.
Teachers snack and graze, warding off the hunger pangs throughout the day. In one school I even have my very own treat drawer and every time the teachers share chocolates, fruit or cake, they hide one in my special place. Not always good when mouldy oranges are only discovered weeks after the Christmas holidays.
Yet it is forbidden for children to bring anything edible into school whatsoever. Discovery of sweet wrappers causes scandal levels similar to Ian Brady’s killing spree on the Moors.
Considering this to be an urban legend, or rural legend as the case may be, a friend relayed the sequence of recent events in one of her schools to me over a bowl of ramen.
One solitary sweet wrapper had been found concealed behind the sink in the girl's toilets. Meetings were held, assemblies called, the culprit urged to turn themselves in.
The general gist of why this is such a major faux pas?
"School is a place for learning, not eating."
By fourth period, the one before lunch, I cannot concentrate in class, my students are keeling over and dying of starvation and concentration and patience levels are dangerously low all round.
Nothing is learnt and the clock is watched ticking by slowly by all concerned.
Maybe the Japanese educational system needs to review its concentration camp-esque policy, make like Mary Antoinette and LET THEM EAT CAKE, chocolate, sweets, anything to make them more prone to listening.
And then there's those that hold a grudge.
The sole example being three children, likened to the Midwich Cuckoos, recounted in Children of Japan Part Two.
After forming an alliance against me when I inadvertently caused one of them to cry over a game of rock scissors paper in the morbid heat of summer more than six months ago, they are STILL not talking to me.
Instead they attempt to make my life as difficult as possible for the 45 minutes per month that they are graced with my presence.
While I struggle to remember that fateful, the summer of 2011 will play heavy on my 11-year-old victim’s mind until the day he dies.
I have been told by a good friend that I must tell the main perpetrator of recent trouble, and victim’s girlfriend, in broad Lancastrian, to "shove a cabbage up her cunt."
With one day remaining at the school comes my final chance to action this challenge. I may even try to slip "evil bitch troll from hell" into the mix.
Moving on to coughs and sniffles.
After a weekend of uncontrollable debauchery, I was one of the lucky few to be given a "working day" and instructed to stay at home when more than 50 per cent, and some 75 students were taken down with the flu. School was cancelled and I, the healthy Westerner, spent the day watching films and catching up on sleep.
It is mandatory for sick Japanese people, young and old to wear masks to protect others from their death bugs. In extreme epidemics such as this recent spate of so-called "influenza", pretty much everyone voluntarily opts to sport the Darth Vader look, inhaling their own spit and carbon monoxide all day long.
Every Japanese person I have spoken to has had the flu this time round while their non-mask wearing colleagues from abroad have magically survived unscathed by the 24-hour superbug which, like everything else, has been blown out of all proportion.
Yet another unfathomable oriental survival tactic.
No wonder they lost the war.
Wednesday, 1 February 2012
Satanic possession and a web of "sweet" deceit
For the best part of the last year a demon has lurked beneath.
A chanting, curtain-twitching monster monitoring my every move.
With an early morning habitual chanting ritual, reaching decibels illegal on English soil and audible from the moon, accompanied by continuous window sliding, I have been rudely awoken from blissful slumber on uncountable occasions.
For a long time this anonymous beast was presumed male, ignorant to my desperate banging to mute his anti-social behaviour.
Several Facebook status rants later, it is brought to my attention by my predecessor that the lovingly named "Chanting Man" is actually a woman, and a formidable one, who continues to murmur in foreign tongues until this day.
The one occasion that anything of significance happens in my village, the annual piss up, cunningly disguised as a Hanzaki Matsuri (Giant Salamander Festival), and the entire village is inebriated.
As the clock strikes midnight no one knows their own name, how they got home, or if they are even in the right home.
Everyone except chanting woman, who lurks indoors, surreptitiously watching people carry futons up stairs and into my apartment.
The morning after the night before, I receive a call from my company informing me that, and I quote; the “sweet little old lady” downstairs was "traumatised" by such vast quantities of bedding.
And a scary prospect it is.
Over the following weeks she continues to slide, bang and chant her “holy” ritual at unholy hours.
With the New Year comes my second encounter with the bitch troll from hell, resulting from a faulty faucet and a flooded floor.
Paper thin, Japanese apartments are designed for short-term practicality. However one toilet flush seeping through the ceiling and into the apartment below still comes as some surprise.
My 10,000 Yen water damage deposit has literally been washed down the toilet.
Yet the greater surprise is the way I am alerted to this expensive mishap.
As the clock approaches midnight, there is an irate hammering and bell ringing at my front door, along with several failed attempts to open it.
Terrified of what beast is lurking on the other side so late at night, my life flashes before my eyes, imagination running wild, earthquakes, fires, rapists, murderers……
Who could it be?
Plucking up courage I unlock the door to be presented with a very angry, very fat, very ugly midget hobbit.
Yellowing crooked teeth glisten in the moonlight as its mouth moves in a blur of angry gibberish. All I can decipher is "toilet" and "I live on the first floor".
I have come face to face with the beast who has tormenting me, confronted by my own worst nightmare.
Opening the bathroom door there is a flood of water, which I mop up, apologising profusely and shouting "Nihongo wakarimasen" (I don't understand Japanese).
She sees this as her cue to shout faster and louder as if this will make me understand.
Some ten minutes later, during which my door remains open, Siberian wind and snow blowing in, all my hard earned heat running out, she too finally runs out of heat, about turns and shuffles back through the ice back into the cesspit below.
I pray to his Lord Jesus Christ to send the Grim Reaper to give this abhorrent juggernaut a sharp push on her descent, straight into eternal damnation and the fiery pits of hell.
Prayers unanswered, it lives on.
My too close encounter with this "sweet little old traumatised old lady" puts the dogs under my childhood bed on a par with Elmo. I dread the day I come into contact with bona fide angry Japanese person.
In the meantime I will combat her satanic ranting with heavy metal devil music until the day I return to England while she slowly rots in her own, shrivelled pink shell.
A chanting, curtain-twitching monster monitoring my every move.
With an early morning habitual chanting ritual, reaching decibels illegal on English soil and audible from the moon, accompanied by continuous window sliding, I have been rudely awoken from blissful slumber on uncountable occasions.
For a long time this anonymous beast was presumed male, ignorant to my desperate banging to mute his anti-social behaviour.
Several Facebook status rants later, it is brought to my attention by my predecessor that the lovingly named "Chanting Man" is actually a woman, and a formidable one, who continues to murmur in foreign tongues until this day.
The one occasion that anything of significance happens in my village, the annual piss up, cunningly disguised as a Hanzaki Matsuri (Giant Salamander Festival), and the entire village is inebriated.
As the clock strikes midnight no one knows their own name, how they got home, or if they are even in the right home.
Everyone except chanting woman, who lurks indoors, surreptitiously watching people carry futons up stairs and into my apartment.
The morning after the night before, I receive a call from my company informing me that, and I quote; the “sweet little old lady” downstairs was "traumatised" by such vast quantities of bedding.
And a scary prospect it is.
Over the following weeks she continues to slide, bang and chant her “holy” ritual at unholy hours.
With the New Year comes my second encounter with the bitch troll from hell, resulting from a faulty faucet and a flooded floor.
Paper thin, Japanese apartments are designed for short-term practicality. However one toilet flush seeping through the ceiling and into the apartment below still comes as some surprise.
My 10,000 Yen water damage deposit has literally been washed down the toilet.
Yet the greater surprise is the way I am alerted to this expensive mishap.
As the clock approaches midnight, there is an irate hammering and bell ringing at my front door, along with several failed attempts to open it.
Terrified of what beast is lurking on the other side so late at night, my life flashes before my eyes, imagination running wild, earthquakes, fires, rapists, murderers……
Who could it be?
Plucking up courage I unlock the door to be presented with a very angry, very fat, very ugly midget hobbit.
Yellowing crooked teeth glisten in the moonlight as its mouth moves in a blur of angry gibberish. All I can decipher is "toilet" and "I live on the first floor".
I have come face to face with the beast who has tormenting me, confronted by my own worst nightmare.
Opening the bathroom door there is a flood of water, which I mop up, apologising profusely and shouting "Nihongo wakarimasen" (I don't understand Japanese).
She sees this as her cue to shout faster and louder as if this will make me understand.
Some ten minutes later, during which my door remains open, Siberian wind and snow blowing in, all my hard earned heat running out, she too finally runs out of heat, about turns and shuffles back through the ice back into the cesspit below.
I pray to his Lord Jesus Christ to send the Grim Reaper to give this abhorrent juggernaut a sharp push on her descent, straight into eternal damnation and the fiery pits of hell.
Prayers unanswered, it lives on.
My too close encounter with this "sweet little old traumatised old lady" puts the dogs under my childhood bed on a par with Elmo. I dread the day I come into contact with bona fide angry Japanese person.
In the meantime I will combat her satanic ranting with heavy metal devil music until the day I return to England while she slowly rots in her own, shrivelled pink shell.
Monday, 23 January 2012
Onions make your blood healthy and smothy
Forget Taeko drumming, calligraphy and origami, the most appealing, creative and exclusively Japanese art form is, beyond all reasonable debate, the medium of Jinglish.
For those unfamiliar with the concept, Jinglish is the direct translation of Japanese into Britain’s mother tongue.
My love of these absurd misinterpretations was ignited during training week, when hours were whiled away reading menus, shop signs and miscellaneous products with our cameras poised waiting for that money shot.
Twelve months later and my all-time favourite remains the a disabled toilet sign reading “Deformed man toilet.”
School attire always provides some light entertainment and, if I spent more time teaching the children and less reading their clothing, they may actually learn a thing or two.
But as an Engish speaker I have greater difficulty in averting my eyes from these abominable clothing choices than I do pooing more than once a fortnight when living on a diet consisting solely of sticky rice. And I have firsthand experience of both.
Mothers blissfully drop their offspring off at elementary schools Japan-wide, unaware that they have unwittingly transformed them into walking advertisements for the sex industry.
“I want to be a slow and happy lover,”
“Every man’s girl” and other such provocative slurs are proudly sported by the majority of girls and, more worryingly, an increasing ratio of boys.
Only last week a Kindergarten student turned up dressed in a T-shirt carrying, in bold capitals, the following disclaimer:
“WARNING – JUNK PACKAGE IS HOT.”
Needless to say my gay in Japan demanded I steal the offending item.
Sadly even if he starved himself to the proportions of an emaciated Barbie doll, it would still be a more than snug fit.
And this is where we detect a major flaw. These must have accessories are majorly tailor made for children.
Another venue, proving fruitful for the typical “Jinglish Spotter,” is the Hyaku En store.
Japan’s answer to PoundStretcher stocks realms of useless crap, slapped with highly important information.
For example: “She is a cat. Her name is Stella. She is very popular with the boys though very stylish and selfish.”
And "Poodle, I’ll covey straight love,” hints that the iconic gay canine is shirking its liberal roots to promote heterosexuality.
A sweet treat, served up in school today, urged me to “enjoy ecstatic time with this confectionary.”
Unless it can give me multiple orgasms or the same high as the countless buckets of aromatic bush circa the university halls of residence days, I am doubtful it does exactly what it says on the packet.
While holidaying in Okinawa, we spied toddler-sized T-shirts carrying provocative slogans including:
“TITS. More than a handful is a waste,” accompanied by a hand-sketched bosom.
Convenience shops and pharmacies are also popular haunts for the snap-happy spotter with products including; “Clean Puff” tissues, “Crunky Ball Nude” chocolate snacks and “Tuche” tights.
Additionally are those openly promoting cruelty to birds.
And now we move on to products which make absolutely no sense whatsoever. The oriental equivalent of walking into a tattoo parlour and opting to have a word in foreign tongues inscribed on your left buttock because it “looks pretty”. Unaware that you have branded yourself with the Kanji for “cunt” for the remainder of your existence on this mortal rock.
Another student recently came to school wearing a shocking pink long sleeve with the intuitive words:
“I like,
“Mouse is,
“Whatever,
“Candy time.” An argument too well grounded to even consider opening up to debate.
And now I leave you with one last photograph, which I think you will agree sees the floodgates flying wide open on all manner of existential questionings.
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